|
 |
Olives
The collection and the use of olives as food have its origins in
Prehistoric Greece.
The Olive history is identical with that of Olive Oil. Thus, there is no
question where the man used for the first time the olive as food; this
took place in Crete about 3500 BC in the Early Minoan times. Since then,
5500 years passed and little things changed.
Strictly speaking, the only difference from the antiquity and the modern
times is just the broadness of the expansion of the olive tree.
Today, commercial olive production generally occurs in two geographic
belts around the world, between 30º and 45º (both North and South),
where the climatic requirements for growth and fruitfulness can be
found.
Most of the production of olives takes place in the Mediterranean Basin.
The Olive fruit is classed botanically as a drupe, similar to the peach
or plum. Within the stone are one or two seeds.
Olives tend to have maximum oil content (about 20-30 percent of fresh
weight) and greatest weight six to eight months after the blossoms
appear. At that stage they are black and will continue to cling to the
tree for several weeks. Fruits for oil extraction are allowed to mature,
but, for processing as food, immature fruits are picked or shaken off
the tree.
Olives are grown mainly for the production of olive oil. Fresh,
unprocessed olives are inedible because of their extreme bitterness
resulting from a glucoside that can be neutralized by treatments with a
dilute alkali such as lye. Salt applications also dispel some of the
bitterness. The processed fruit may be eaten either ripe or green.
On our days, the best olive type for food is considered the Greek "Kalamata
Olive" (Calamon Olive), an almond-shaped Greek olive that ranges in
length from about 1/2 to 1 inch.
Kalamatas olives (Calamon) are a dark eggplant color and have an
excellent flavor that can be rich and fruity. They're often slit to
allow the wine vinegar "Marinade" in which they're soaked to penetrate
the flesh.
Kalamatas olives are marketed packed in either olive oil or vinegar.
This type of olive is found exclusively in Greece.
Types
of Greek olives
The most important types of Greek olives are the Black Olives and the
Green Olives.
Olives are selected based on three factors, which are the year of
harvest, the type and the size. Olives should be eaten within 18 months
after production date. Their size varies from very small to giant called
as "mammoth". Olives are measured by their number per liter of net
content. One liter of net content can hold from 80 to 400 olives
depending on the size.
·
SIZE:
The olive's suitability for table consumption is a function of its size,
which is important to presentation. Olives between 3 and 5 g are
considered medium-sized, while those weighing over 5 g are large.
·
SHAPE:
Fruits that are more or less spherical in shape usually sell best,
although some elongated ones also find flavor.
·
STONE:
The stone should come away easily from the flesh and a flesh: stone
ratio of 5 to 1 is acceptable; the higher this ratio the better the
commercial value of the olives.
·
SKIN:
The
skin of the fruit should be fine, yet elastic and resistant to blows and
to the action of alkalis and brine.
·
SUGAR
CONTENT:
A high sugar content in the flesh is an asset. The lowest acceptable
level is 4%, especially in olives that undergo fermentation.
·
OIL
CONTENT:
Oil
content should be as low as possible because in many cases it impairs
the keeping properties and consistency of the processed fruit. Only in
certain types of black olives is a medium to high oil content desirable.
Green Olives
Green olives are obtained from olives harvested during the ripening
cycle when they have reached normal size, but prior to color change.
They are usually hand picked when there is a slight change in hue from
leaf-green to a slightly yellowish green and when the flesh begins to
change consistency but before it turns soft. Color change should not
have begun. Trials have been run to machine harvest table olives, but
owing to the high percentage of bruised fruit they had to be immersed in
a diluted alkaline solution while still in the orchard. Recently
harvested, the olives are taken to the plant for processing on the same
day if possible.
How
are they processed?
The olives are treated in a diluted lye solution (sodium hydroxide) to
eliminate and transform the oleuropein and sugars, to form organic acids
that aid in subsequent fermentation, and to increase the permeability of
the fruit. The lye concentrations vary from 2% to 3.5%, depending on the
ripeness of the olives, the temperature, the variety and the quality of
the water. The treatment is performed in containers of varying sizes in
which the solution completely covers the fruit. The olives remain in
this solution until the lye has penetrated two thirds of the way through
the flesh. The lye is then replaced by water, which removes any
remaining residue and the process is repeated. Lengthy washing properly
eliminates soda particles but also washes away soluble sugars which are
necessary for subsequent fermentation.
Fermentation is carried out in suitable containers in which the olives
are covered with brine. Traditionally, this was done in wooden casks.
More recently, larger containers have come into use that is inert on the
inside. The brine causes the release of the fruit cell juices, forming a
culture medium suitable for fermentation. Brine concentrations are 9-10%
to begin with, but rapidly drop to 5% owing to the olive's higher
content of interchangeable water.
At first Gram-negative bacteria multiply, but after a week and a half
they disappear. They are a consequence of contamination produced in the
plant installations, and in the atmosphere and brine and can be avoided
by stepping up hygiene measures. At a pH level of 6 and upwards,
lactobacilli develop massively until the Gram-negatives disappear and
the brine attains a pH of 4.5. There is a predominance of Lactobacillus
plantarum which produces lactic acid from glucose almost by itself. When
the fermentable matter is spent, acid formation ceases. Yeasts appear
together with the lactobacilli. Fermentative yeasts do not cause
deterioration but oxidant yeasts consume lactic acid and raise the pH
level and may therefore jeopardize the process.
Under certain conditions normal fermentation processes can be altered by
the presence of undesirable microorganisms which can transmit poor
organoleptic properties to the olives or impair their keeping
properties. Gas pocket fermentation is caused by the Gram-negative
bacilli in the first stage of fermentation, but can be controlled by
intensifying hygiene precautions when the olives are delivered to the
plant, as well as during lye treatment and washing. If gas pockets still
appear in spite of these measures, the pH level can be lowered to 4 by
adding an acid. Butyric fermentation is well controlled by ensuring the
proper pH level. Putrid fermentation is caused by poorly-kept containers
and bad water. Lastly, there is a type of deterioration known by its
Spanish name of "zapaterνa"
(cobbler's) which produces an unpleasant taste and odour at the end of
the fermentation process, often coinciding with rising temperatures in
the spring or early summer. It is produced by bacteria belonging to the
Clostridium and Propioni-bacterium genus. The right combination of brine
concentration and pH level (5% salt and 4.5 pH) helps to control
fermentation processes.
When properly fermented, olives keep for a long time. If they are in
casks, the brine level must be topped up. At the time of shipment, the
olives have to be classified for the first or second time as the case
may be. The original brine is replaced and the olives are packed in
barrels and tin or glass containers. Sometimes they are stoned (pitted)
or stuffed with anchovies, pimento, etc.
The bitterness of the olives is removed by treating them in a 3-3.5Ί
B lye solution in which they are left for 8 to 72 hours until the lye
has penetrated three-quarters of the way through the flesh. They are
rinsed several times over the next day or two, and then placed in a 5/6%
brine solution for two days. A second 7% brine solution is prepared, and
acidity is corrected with citric acid (pH 4.5). After 8-10 days they are
ready to be eaten and retain their intense green colour. Sometimes the
consignment has to be postponed, and it is necessary to store the
olives. This is easy, as long as temperatures do not rise. The olives
can stay in an 8% brine solution until spring, but then it has to be
raised to 10%. In larger installations they can be kept in cold storage,
at a temperature of between 5Ί
and 7Ί
C, in a 3% brine solution.Before
shipment, the olives are washed repeatedly, sorted and packed in
suitable containers in 5Ί
or 6ΊB
brine.
Black
olives in brine
In
Greece they use the Conservolea variety, with some 200 olives per kilo.
The fruits are handpicked when they are black, but before they are
overripe and shriveled from frost. They have to be transported as
quickly as possible to the processing plant where they are sorted,
washed and immersed in a brine solution at a concentration of 8-10%.
Large-scale plants use big 10-20 tones vats, whilst small scale
processors still use wooden vats. At the start of fermentation, the
olives must be kept from contact with air, so the vats are covered and
made airtight. The brine stimulates the microbial fermentation activity
and reduces the bitterness of the oleuropein. The brine concentration
drops to 6%, so it is necessary to increment it to 8% or even 10%. This
is done by mixing the solution with the olives by means of a pump, which
improves circulation. When the bitterness has been sufficiently weakened
-this varies widely- the fruit can be sold. The colour fades during the
process and can be corrected by aerating the olives for two or three
days, although sometimes they are treated with 0.1% ferrous gluconate to
make them darker. Finally, the olives are selected and packed in
internally-varnished barrels or cans which are filled with fresh brine
at 8%. They are popular on the market due to their slightly bitter taste
and aroma.
These are also packed in vinegar (25% of the volume of the brine) and
even undergo heat treatment; a few grams of oil are then added to each
can to form a surface layer. This type of preparation is used for the
Greek Kalamata variety. These are elongated, medium-sized olives which
are slit laterally before being put into cans.
Black
olives in dry salt
Also
of Greek origin, these are prepared using overripe olives of the
Megaritiki variety. They are vigorously washed and placed in baskets
with alternating layers of dry salt equivalent to 15% of the weight of
the olives. The result is an olive that is salty, not very bitter, that
looks like a raisin and is for local consumption.
Finally, a mention should also be given to the numerous styles of table
olive preparations in the different olive-growing regions. Some examples
are olives treated solely with water to sweeten them prior to crushing
or splitting, which facilitates washing. In many cases, before being
eaten the olives are seasoned with herbs, pieces of orange, lemon,
garlic, paprika, oregano, etc. Until the turn of this century, the table
olive market was local, but since then it has expanded to non-producing
areas where table olives have become popular. This is particularly true
of the Spanish, Greek and Californian types. |
|